Room with a chilly view

It might not look it, but if you stay on the balcony longer than 2 minutes your nose starts to freeze off.

It's been 25 years since I spent a winter in Europe and I'd forgotten what real cold feels like! Before venturing onto the streets we emptied our suitcase and put it all on. In my red windproof fleece I shared a passing resemblance to a stuffed capsicum.

It was worth it though... We got the uncrowded version of Rothenburg. Nearly empty streets. Unstressed shop keepers. Friendly cafes with a choice of window tables. And last week's snow dusting the city walls.