I'm amazed by the difference in the place after 20 years. When I was last here it was like the wild west - very dirty, dancing bears on street corners (so very sad) and the muddy street gutters were strewn with rubbish, like Asia.
Today I stolled down the same streets I walked on 20 years ago. It's like someone took the Istanbul I remember and turned it into a film set. The streets have been 'beautified' - cobblestone streets, cute road barriers, smooth paved footpaths, straight edged street gutters, shiny new trams, readable street signs, less hawkers and definitely no bears. Some of the city walls are so free of grime they look like they have been cleaned with a toothbrush. Even the hawkers seem to be cleaner (slightly).
And going to the loo here has become a wonderful experience. (Not something I recall ever saying about the old Turkey).
Check out the entrance to this loo. Ah yes - there is nothing like a Roman wall to make your pee seem majestic!
just a thought.....At this rate, when you return in another twenty years, going to the loo may lead you to enlightenment
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